- Jonathan got rejected from Millionaire.
- Jarret knows all the words to MacArthur Park.
- And, um...I'm starting a new job in a new district tomorrow. It's a thing.
...probably.
On Saturday, we did a bus tour. We took the train from Dublin to Limerick, where we caught the bus. From there we toured Bunratty Castle, the Cliffs of Moher, and the Burren before ending up in Galway. We didn’t go back to Dublin with the tour, and stayed overnight in Galway before heading back to Dublin Sunday afternoon.
In short on that trip:
The tour guide talked about Angela’s Ashes the entire time we rode through Limerick, even though it was painfully obvious he hadn’t read the book. (“John” McCourt. Yeesh.)
While standing on top of Bunratty castle, my dad told me, “If we hung you upside down by your ankles over the edge, that’s what it’s like to kiss the Blarney stone.” (We never made it to Blarney castle.)
The Cliffs of Moher were so windy that I had to pull back my hair, pull up the hood on my sweatshirt, and knot the drawstrings tight. And no one told me that the parking lot was at the bottom and you had to walk up!
(This way to the castle...oh, what's that in the background?)
The Burren looks like a giant stone puzzle, and I hopped along between them humming the theme to Tetris.
Galway is mainly known as the origin of the Claddagh ring. My dad managed to go his entire life before that week not knowing what they were.Also in Galway was a “Spanish” arch, built to welcome the Spanish Armada in 1584, hoping that they would kick some British ass. Um…that didn’t work out too well.
On Monday, we took a half-hour flight to Liverpool.
Yes, you read that right. I made my pilgramage to Mecca. (Would that make my trip to Abbey Road studios in 1999 Medina?)
We were only going to be there until Tuesday morning, so this was going to be my all-out Beatles fangirl day. We landed in John Lennon airport and headed to check in at the Hard Day’s Night hotel. Filled to the brim with Beatles photos, paintings, and memorabilia. The not cool part: You couldn’t take pictures in the lobby. Too many tourist problems, I guess. But I still managed to get a photo of what I thought was the coolest thing there: George Martin’s hand-written string quartet score for “Yesterday.”
We signed up for another bus tour, the Magical Mystery Tour. Dad and I knew from our previous bus tour that we wanted to get on the bus early to secure window seats. We each took a side on the bus so we could get a shot of everything. Fortunately for me, most of the good stuff was on my side of the bus.
We didn’t get out of the bus often, but we got out for George Harrison’s and Paul McCartney’s childhood homes, Strawberry Fields, and Penny Lane. We passed many other things, including the childhood homes of John Lennon and Ringo Starr, and many other things that only a Beatles fangirl like me would be interested in. Just so you know, I won the tour guide’s Beatles trivia quiz. Well, it wasn’t really a game, but the guy was asking questions and I knew the most obscure ones. Getting a round of applause was enough of a win for me.
We were let off by our hotel, because it happened to be around the corner from the Cavern Club. Even though pretty much the whole place was reconstructed, I can still say I stood on its stage. Dad and I walked over to Albert Dock to The Beatles Story exhibition. There happened to be a huge tall ships race leaving the dock the same morning, so while thousands of people were trying to leave the dock, we were trying to enter!
By the way, there were these statues all over the city. Liverpool had been named Europe's capital of culture for 2008, and they decided to put these "Super Lamb Bananas" all over the place. Here's one outside The Beatles Story, dressed up like Ringo.
I cannot express how awesome Monday was.
Tuesday we took the train to Chester, because Dad wanted to visit the cathedral. In there I found a facsimile of Handel’s score for Messiah, which was cool. The town of Chester itself was a neat little place, with lots of Tudor architechture that was actually built while the Tudors reigned. From Chester we took a train through Wales, and caught the ferry in Holyhead to return to Dublin.
This is the longest place name in the world...couldn't get it all in one shot!
Wednesday was spent walking around Dublin and taking a longer look at things we’d passed while on our way to the National Library or Archives. It’s weird, because I feel like I’ve typed so much, but I still didn’t mention everything we did in Ireland or England. Like, we saw a terrible production of The Three Sisters at the Abbey Theatre. I enjoyed seeing Hancock at the movie theater down the street from the hotel more. And the Cliffs of Moher had suicide prevention signs all over the place. And the famed River Mersey in Liverpool looks terrible from the air, it's brown. And did I mention all the sheep? And cows? And horses? And llamas? Hell, I even found Jesus in a box!
Oh, and did you know that Dublin has a big pointy pole in the middle of it?
When we returned I searched ancestry.com and found Patrick and Margaret in US censuses. Patrick came over in 1885, right after his mother died, leaving his 17-year old brother and two sisters to run the family farm. Margaret came over in 1888, Mary in 1896. If there were letters between her and Thomas, I don’t have them. There must have been, for my grandmother to know that he’d married twice (and have his address in her address book).
Eunice said she had pictures she could scan and send to us, but since she doesn’t have a computer at home (or even her own email address), we haven’t received them yet. We sent them copies of photos of Mary, Margaret and Patrick that my grandmother had had framed on her wall for decades. Dad also included a photo taken at a family gathering in 1995, as it most the only photo he could send with most of all the American cousins in it. There’s a wedding coming up in a few weeks, maybe we could take another one.
Anyway, that’s what I did for ten days in July. Thanks for bringing me with you, Dad. Kind of ironic that I managed to finish this just in time for the end of summer, isn't it?
We’re about an hour’s train ride out of Dublin, and it’s obvious that we’re not in the city anymore. Most New Jersey towns are busier than this. I don’t know whether that says something about Ireland or New Jersey.
We went to the Carlow library, which, unlike the National Library, put their parish records on a computer printout. It was there that one of our mysteries was solved – how
Francis wasn’t in the book, which means he was born before the record keeping started in 1813. The grave inferred 1811, which fits. He married
Looking for similar parents in the book we found several siblings for Elizabeth – Timothy, Mary, Ellen, Catherine, and John. Siblings of Francis included Denis, Mary, Rose, and Maurice. The death and marriage records aren’t as detailed, so we found only one of these people later on, Maurice’s death in 1908. So for all we know, most of these people died as children.
Speaking of, the book revealed a great uncle my dad didn’t know he had – James, born in 1869. Obviously he had died as a child if we’d never heard of him, but to see that in there was a surprise. (When we returned to
This is where pure dumb luck comes into play.
My dad dragged me all over town, trying to find this one pub he’d eaten at three years ago. I was growing increasingly frustrated with him, since I wanted to go to another place in town to do research and he hadn’t wanted to. Dad couldn’t find the pub, so we settled into lunch at a hotel.
Where we’d wanted to go next was the cemetery that we now knew contained our ancestors. I’d written down the phone numbers of several local cab companies, but we exited the hotel to find two random cabs waiting outside. We climbed into one and showed the driver the directions to the church we’d found online.
“That’d take you 9 km out of the way!” He exclaimed. He drove up to the other cab. “Hey, Pat, can you believe these directions? They want you to take
Turns out, the cab driver, Noel’s, son went to school at its church. He even lived in the town from where those 1940s letters came from. He had us at the cemetery within ten minutes, and told us to call his cell when we were ready to leave.
In the cemetery, Dad found the grave from the website. Finally seeing it in person solved the mystery of Thomas’s missing child. It did not say that he died in 1930 aged 31; he died in 1930 aged 3 ½. But more importantly, I found a grave with the family name that wasn’t on the website. In it were Patrick, Frank, and Luke; the three sons of Thomas mentioned in the letters. Also in that grave was a baby Padraic; this made another mystery baby, as the other grave had a baby John in it. Dad assumed they were the sons of one or two of Thomas’s sons. I mused over it. “There are three brothers here…where are their wives buried?”
Dad and I argued over where to go next. I wanted to go to the church where the actual book of parish records was kept (we’d gotten the priest’s phone number in Carlow), but Dad wanted to go to Rutland and try and track down where the farm was, even though all he had was a map from 1852. We were still debating this when the cab pulled up, but not with Noel; It was Pat, his partner. He asked about what we were looking for, and Dad happened to let the surname of the relatives slip.
“Hey, I know a Tom in
Um…what?
Sure, it was possible that he was named after who would have been his grandfather, but…was he really driving us to a stranger’s house right now?
Yes, he was, and soon we were pulling up in front of a small farmhouse. A redheaded woman came to the door when Pat knocked. Awkwardly, we named a bunch of names for her and asked if it was her family.
She said yes.
Let’s put that in perspective: My dad and I expected to find absolutely nothing about our family history when we came to Ireland and we’d managed to track down living relatives.
The woman at the door was Tom’s wife Eunice, and once realizing we were family instantly invited us in and made tea. Tom was at work. Once of her three kids managed to poke her head in the kitchen, the only blood relative I saw that day – my third cousin Ciara, the oldest at nine years old. Tom’s mother Nancy also lived with them. She was the wife of Luke, and the two babies buried in the cemetery were her children. (Like that wasn’t awkward when we found out that one.) Pat and Frank never married, we found out. Pat had died of a heart attack, and Frank in a boiler explosion accident. (Eep.)
We told them about their cousins over in
Eunice walked us through their apple orchard (!!!) to reveal the house exactly as described in the census from a century ago. Of course, what do we ask first?
“Where’s the piggery?”
“Oh, we turned that into a milking station,” Eunice told us. “If it was still a piggery, you’d have smelled it from three km away!”
“Oh, so you still have cows then?”
“Yes, we have sixty cattle.”
“Um…I have a dog. Is that a cat over there?”
“Yes, we have nine of them.”
I kept asking questions of Eunice while Dad went around taking pictures of everything he could see. He picked up a clod of dirt from the ground, and announced that he was going to put it on Mary and Margaret’s grave in
Eunice drove us to the Tinryland church, where the priest showed us the original books. Then Noel picked us up and drove us back to Carlow, where from my Dad’s vague memories, he managed to find the pub he’d wanted to go to for lunch. Good thing he found it too, I had one of the best cheeseburgers I’d ever eaten in my life.
We were exhausted, amazed, and still slightly in shock. We’d found everything, solved all the mysteries. And we’d managed to find the one cab driver in the county at the right time to lead us to it all.
And we still had five more days in
My great-great-great-grandparents lived in it.
More on that later.
I’ve been back from Ireland a few weeks, but I’ve only gotten around to typing it up until now. So there.
My dad and I planned to spend ten days in Ireland. Our mission? Find evidence of my great-grandmother. One can get dual citizenship in Ireland if you have one grandparent that was born in the country, as my dad has.
Now one might ask, how come we never looked for this until now? Well, people have. My dad and stepmom went to Ireland three years ago and came up with nothing. His uncle and daughter went many years ago and found nothing. How were we going to find evidence on my Irish ancestors this year when the last relative to have known them, my grandmother, died over a year ago?
Here’s what we knew before my grandmother died. I decided to only include their first names. Just assume they’re all very very Irish surnames, because they are. The first names are too.
My Irish great-grandmother (Mary) was one of four children. They were from County Carlow. Three came to America (the ones that came with her were Margaret and Patrick), and one (Thomas) stayed behind. Mary and Margaret lived in Manhattan, Patrick in White Plains. Mary later moved to Queens, where she died in 1937. Margaret died in 1941. They’re buried in the same grave. The headstone says Margaret was born in 1868, and Mary in 1878. But we had reason to believe Mary was lying about her age.
Here’s what I found after my grandmother died, after I found a desk full of all her letters, which were meticulously organized by recipient:
I found an envelope labeled “Mary Kelly and Ireland.” There was one letter from 1940 or so from Mary Kelly, telling my grandmother that she’d given her and my grandfather’s address to a distant cousin in Ireland. The other letters, written during WWII, seemed to be to Mary Kelly from that cousin, and even though they were vague, they seemed to imply that Thomas, the uncle that stayed behind, had had children. One letter mentioned Frank and Pat, another Frank and Luke. Another mentioned a daughter that was a nun. These letters were from a town called Pollerton Little, in County Carlow.
Written on that envelope was a kind of family tree in my grandmother’s handwriting. It began with “Francis and Elizabeth (grandparents),” followed by “Children: Thomas and Margaret (twins), Patrick, Mary. Thomas married twice. Patrick married Margaret.” (No, Patrick did not marry his sister, I’m not including last names, remember?) The main thing about finding this envelope was that it contradicted the names of the parents listed on Mary’s death certificate. Those were listed as Thomas and Mary.
Here’s what my dad found a few months before we left:
There’s a website that lists what’s on gravestones in cemeteries in Ireland. It’s done by volunteer submission. And someone had submitted the headstones in a cemetery in Bennekerry, County Carlow, which had several of them with the surname we were looking for. One was erected by a Patrick “of White Plains, New York,” but all the other names were wrong. Another was for a Francis and Elizabeth, erected by Thomas of Rutland, and Thomas was buried there, along with his two wives. There was also a child of Thomas’s there, died age 31 in 1930, and also a baby buried in 1972. This seemed more like it, even though we had no idea where the baby came from. Rutland, Bennekerry, and Pollerton Little are all within two miles of each other, too.
Here’s what my dad and I found out within the week before we left:
My aunt had given my dad a book a few Christmases ago about finding Irish ancestry, and I read part of it. It told me that in Ireland, births were registered in parishes, and there were church parishes and civil parishes. Civil registration wasn’t required in Ireland until 1864. (Good, just in time for my ancestors to be born!) I also looked up all the places in Ireland that I could search about ancestry. I also found the website of the parish of Bennekerry, which said that before 1976, I need to be looking in the Tinryland parish. We didn’t even know if it was our relatives in that grave, but it was good to know. Also, the book told me that most of the church records back in the day were in Latin, including Latinizing most of the names. So since I was looking for a Mary, I had to search for Maria. And even then, the names might be different from what you thought they were, spelling or otherwise.
I also checked my grandmother’s birthday poster before we left. It had hung for decades on her basement door, where I stared at it from her kitchen, learning all the zodiac signs, birth stones, birth flowers, and most importantly, the birthdates of all my immediate relatives. Mary’s and Margaret’s birthdays were on it, and the more information you know, the better.
According to the book, just knowing the county your ancestors were from was a great start. We had names, approximate birthdates, and possibly the towns they lived in. And even then, we expected to find nothing.
We didn’t know how wrong we were.